THE NORWAY DIARIES: 3 WEEKS

A trip to Norway has been on my bucket list for a long time; my dad had Norwegian heritage (and ensured we all knew he was proud of his Viking ancestry). He loved the mythology and history there, and it made me love it too.

After he passed away, I knew I wanted to bring some of his ashes to Norway—something he had not-so-subtly requested many times.

Needless to say, this trip meant a lot to me.

It was also why we decided to make the trip a full three weeks and, naturally, see as much of Norway as we possibly could.

And so, this is the Norway Diaries: three weeks of camping, hiking, exploring, and generally seeing how much of the country we could cram into one trip. If you are looking to plan your trip, you may be looking for our epic Norway adventure itinerary instead!

OSLO

Our first night was spent recovering from the long flights, making our way to our accommodation looking down on the city from Topcamp Ekberg. We intended to camp as much as possible, and we took our new tent along for the ride in a bittersweet parting from the original tent we had been using since our first trip—to New Zealand—the year we met.

We woke up to the soothing sounds of heavy rain, really testing out our new tent on its first use.

Luckily, the rain took a break as we walked downtown, stopping at Bonita Cafe for breakfast.

We spent the day exploring the city, seeing the Akershus Fortress and walking on top of the Oslo Opera House before spending time and money having food and drinks at SALT, which features a variety of food options, saunas, and a view of the Opera House. We even rode the ferris wheel!

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SVALBARD

The next day, we had a quick and painless flight to the world's northernmost permanently inhabited town—Longyearbyen, Svalbard.

Upon landing, there weren't many transportation options into town, but luckily a bus came by shortly after the luggage was delivered—a service that runs after every scheduled flight.

We stayed at Coal Miner's Cabins, which is also where we enjoyed a really tasty dinner and drink.

Relative to most of our destinations, we really slowed down and relaxed in Longyearbyen. It may have also had something to do with us visiting during the summer and experiencing the long, summer days with almost 24-hour light.

I say "relative", because it is us, so of course we still managed to squeeze in a few activities.

The first was dog sledding the next morning. After being picked up by Basecamp Explorer and changing into our jumpsuits—which we were highly recommended to wear if we didn't want to end up covered in mud—we were introduced to the huskies.

They dedicated the first part of the activity to just going around giving each pup some love and pets, which was obviously amazing.

Now, I was worried the dogs may not want to be pulling us around on a sled.

I was quickly reassured by the guide that the huskies are eager to run and need the summer exercise on cool days to keep them ready for longer winter runs. I was also reassured by my own eyes and ears as the huskies all strained to be chosen and audibly howled when they were not the lucky pick. Especially Crispo. Crispo so badly wanted to go. Since he had gone out the day prior, he had a rest, albeit extremely unwillingly.

Our team was:

Fusilli - Embla

Tack - Rokoi

Asterix - Obelix

We gathered and harnessed our team ourselves, which was slightly more difficult than expected, as the neighbours of each chosen dog did their best to change our minds and choose them.

There were some scheduled breaks where we switched roles, and the dogs could drink water. Although we helped them by pushing off the ground, our team and a few others still needed an additional dog from our guide's team to get us up the final hill back to the kennels.

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Overall, the landscape was incredible, and the experience was an absolute highlight.

Afterward, we headed to SvalBad, a floating sauna.

As drop-ins, we could have shared it with up to ten other people, but we had the whole thing to ourselves. This was good news for me, since I took an embarrassingly long time to work up the courage to jump into the frigid Arctic waters. I also only did it once, though Lucas braved it twice, as well as doing the small cold plunge bucket.

Secretly, it was hard not to imagine a walrus or leopard seal just underneath the surface.

Afterward, we got a bit unlucky; the Svalbard Brewery was not open for our scheduled tasting of five of their locally produced beers (which contain 2000-year-old glacial water), but we would have loved to visit. It ended up being a wash, though, as we instead visited Cafe Huskies and we spent more time around some retired sled dogs while enjoying some coffees!

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We also did a tasting of our own back at Coal Miner's Cabins, trying different beers including some from the local brewery we had missed.

The next day, we took part in a guided hike up Platåfjellet. While not a particularly challenging hike, the guide was necessary for a much more unique reason—to carry a flare gun and rifle to scare off—or in the worst case, shoot—polar bears, should we be unfortunate enough to encounter one.

Interestingly, when going outside the settlement of Longyearbyen, it is actually required to carry something to scare off polar bears.

In what will be a common theme of our diary, we got a wonderful view at the top. The view didn't have any towering peaks, but it surprised us with the gradual trail leading to the water and the incredible colours. As a bonus, our guide brought their friend's dog too. Plus cookies.

Honestly, you can never go wrong with more dog cuddles or more cookies, though it did make us miss Briar and Dinah already.

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Since the hike began at 10:00 AM and was only 3 hours, we of course made time to visit Cafe Huskies again for a coffee before climbing back to the abandoned coal cableway at the base of Platåfjellet.

There, looking down over the town and water, we logged our location and spread the first of my dad's ashes.

We took our time wandering down to our dinner reservation at Vinterhagen Restaurant. (Somewhat) jokingly referred to as the greenest place in Svalbard, the restaurant is like a conservatory of plants, while the full windows provide an airy view of the landscape.

Specifically, we were here to try some Arctic specialties, including seal, reindeer, and whale (left to right), which we ordered as an appetizer platter before our reindeer steaks (sorry Santa). In full transparency, the seal was not my favourite, by which I mean it was a bit tough for me to get down. It had less to do with the restaurant and is likely because it is more of an... acquired taste.

The restaurant also brought us a free amuse bouche: a cracker with cream cheese, smoked salmon, and bean sprouts. Keeping with the theme, I got a Spitzbergen Reinsdyr-Bokk beer, and Lucas got a Svalbard Brewery White IPA.

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Anybody who knows us will believe that even though we had a late dinner, we were nowhere ready to end the evening and our time in Svalbard. So instead, we bar hopped the small town, stopping at Karlsberger Pub and SvalBar. We were very pleasantly surprised with the fantastic Norwegian gins; both Bareksten Botanical Gin and Elsker Dry Velvet Gin were the perfect ending to our time in Svalbard.

We did end up taking a cab, which sounds ridiculous, but in our defence the 36-minute walk to town would have been a 43-minute trek back due to the incline, and we had 1) eaten a big supper and 2) drunk a good amount of gin. Support local.

The last thing I will mention about Svalbard is that we went back at midnight, and the sunset was still going! A very cool experience, and that's coming from a Canadian used to long summer days.

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LOFOTEN AND TROMSØ

The only convenient way out was how we came in: by flight. However, by booking one-way flights, we managed to make our way to Tromsø instead of back to Oslo. This had two benefits, the first being that we didn't need to add the drive from Oslo or Bergen to the tip of the north, and the second that we didn't experience exorbitant fees for dropping off a rental car in a different city.

On the topic of rental cars, we immediately picked up our new home for 8 days: a Volkswagen Golf Alltrack. Side note—the people who leave their unfinished propane tanks and dry goods are the real heroes.

Dry goods are never far from our mind, and we stocked up officially with the necessities as per a child's shopping list: pasta, sauce, ichaban, more pasta, and deli meat and bread.

Now that we were properly supplied, we (i.e. Lucas, because I am continually maintaining my title of Passenger Princess) drove a mere six hours and approximately 421km. We had reached the Lofoten Islands...to park on the side of the road and set up our bed for the first, but not the last, time in the back of our rental due to the inclement weather.

Wasting no time on our first day in Lofoten, we parked our new car, crossed the Svinøya Bridge on foot and wandered the quaint and picturesque Svinøya area, including enjoying our first true non-car views of the mountain-fjord peaks of Lofoten and the immense beauty surrounding us. This was one of the major reasons we wanted to visit Norway.

First, the rorbuer; the beautiful, and generally red, old fishing houses that sit all over the Lofoten area and are one of the most photogenic icons of Norway.

Second, the fish drying racks (also called fish flakes); the triangular structures that, in the right season, are loaded with drying cod. The resulting dried fish becomes stockfish, which can then be rehydrated and treated with lye to become the famous lutefisk.

Third, and last, Fiskerkona, the Fisherman's Wife statue; waving goodbye to her fisherman husband, hoping that he will return, commemorating the families waiting for their loved ones. The walk along the water break was wide enough for a small car. We spent some time taking photos and flying the drone around as the wind participated perfectly.

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The second half of our day was dedicated to one of our many hikes in Lofoten, arguably the most popular activity in this area, if only for the incredible views they provide. Actually, probably one of the most popular activities in all of Norway.

This particular hike was Fløya, a moderate out-and-back hike consisting of 4.5 km and 580 m elevation, all leading to one of the most beautiful photo stops in Lofoten (we will be saying that a lot; this area was basically designed for camera whores like us).

As with any hike in Norway, when they are 580m elevation gain, you can probably expect to hike up like a mountain goat. But, once past the brunt of the hike, we were greeted by the Devil's Gate: a wedged rock and the perfect photo opportunity.

Fløya was absolutely a favourite. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed a local cider at the top; what more could we have asked for?

After a hike, we did what we always do; we went to eat.

We made reservations in advance to visit one of the most popular restaurants in the area, called Børsen. Whether it lived up to the hype or food just tastes better after a hike, we did not leave disappointed. Now that we were in Lofoten, fish was the name of the game, and we started strong, with me ordering Halibut for the hell-of-it (obviously Lucas's joke) and Lucas getting the Stockfish Royal.

For our second night, we decided that the side of the road wouldn't cut it—we were eager to try out the new tent again. We opted for a small drive to Kabelvåg Feriehus & Camping. These short drives were going to become a lot more common since we got a major drive out of the way on the first day.

One of the best parts of going to Norway at this time of the year is the constant light and visibility. 21–22 hours of daylight is perfect for people who like to cram as much into a trip as they can, like us. Anyone of a similar mind could consider visiting in June for up to 24 hours solid of daylight and trying a midnight/late night hike, which we would have loved to try!

In the morning, I had a delicious breakfast at Klatrekafeen that felt intended specifically for me: a sandwich with salami, cheese, butter, zero condiments (because only hot sauce is good in my books), grilled flat, and all that with a coffee. Who cares what Lucas had, when mine was clearly the winner?

Next, we had a must-do stop—because Lucas had his heart set on it, and I am a sucker for an aesthetic anything—at the Henningsvaer football (soccer) field. It was the perfect combination for us with his favourite sport, and a moody landscape for me. This is considered one of the most beautiful soccer pitches in the world. In classic Norwegian fashion, the day was windy, rainy, and cold. When has that stopped us, though?

Of the many reasons we wanted to visit Norway, Viking history was certainly not the least of them. After another relatively short drive, we arrived at the Viking Village in Bøstad, an absolute must-visit. It had mead, archery, axe-throwing, and a traditionally reconstructed Viking longhouse, to name a few of the attractions. They also offered the chance to sail on a replica Viking longship.

I knew Dad would have loved it. So, as we sailed across the water through the wind and rain, we spread another small vial of his ashes into the water.

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Despite the uncooperative weather, we managed to see Unstad and Haukland beaches—mostly from the comfort of our car—before tackling the wet, muddy 4.2 km long and 400 m high trek up Mannen for the 360-degree-view-reward at the top.

With a rainy day comes a rainy night. But luckily, the weather is known to change.

Our morning in the village of Nusfjord was beautiful and sunny. Although it lacks the official designation of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fishing village is one of the best-preserved in Norway because it was selected as a pilot for preserving Norwegian architecture. It also functions as an open-air museum with traditional houses and buildings such as a blacksmith, fish oil factory, shop, and boathouse.

We particularly enjoyed feeling like we were stepping back in time in the general store, as well as visiting the Bakeri and giving the sun-lounging cat outside it pets—until it developed a little pet aggression, which, naturally, did nothing to diminish my affection for it.

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We went slightly out of our way to the tiny town of Sund, specifically to visit the blacksmith there, where we watched the blacksmith at his craft. The Blacksmith of Sund specializes in crafting the cormorant, a practice that has continued since the original blacksmith presented one to King Olav V—he was said to have pushed his way through the crowd to offer it, and the king could not ignore his curiosity. Of course, we brought one home as a travel memento!

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A day in Norway isn't complete without a hike, and our choice for the day was the Ryten Beach to Kvalvika Overlook.

And what an overlook it was! The constant but fairly easy 597m ascent and 7.6km out-and-back trek takes you to a dramatic ledge with turquoise waters and a beach surrounded by mountains in a perfect crescent down below.

This also became the third location where I spread some of my dad's ashes.

After the approximately four-hour hike, and to end the day, we exfoliated our tired feet in the white sand and dipped our sweaty toes in the water at Ramberg Beach, unfortunately for the beach.

That night was the first of what we expected to be three nights at Lofoten Beach Camp, but more on that later.

Our penultimate day in Lofoten began at one of the many famous photo stops: on the Hamnøy Bridge overlooking red rorbuer and the fjord with its mountain backdrop. But the day culminated in the Village of Å—the furthest point that you can drive on the Lofoten Islands, our turning point to take the long way back, but also the home of the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum Å.

The Museum uses historical buildings to showcase the lives of fishermen and traditional life in Norway. After getting the famous cinnamon bun at the Bakery and posting our letter (on the wall) in the traditional post office, we began backtracking, stopping at Sørvågen to do the short walk to Lofoten Waterfall.

Passing through Sakrisøya again on our way back, we had to make a stop at Anita’s Sjømat for a fish sandwich with a view. Sakrisøya is also home to the yellow rorbu, a departure from the classic red seen elsewhere in Lofoten.

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And one more stop at Hamnøy Bridge for good measure.

Returning to Lofoten Beach Camp, we skipped the camp food and ate at their restaurant. We had planned to have one more night camping here the next night, but when we went to the office to confirm our final night, they informed us they would be unable to allow us to stay the next night.

I bet you were thinking we did something wrong and deserved to be kicked out of our campsite.

You would be incorrect (and slightly judgmental, although it wouldn't be that far outside of the realm of possibility).

No, instead we were informed that an incoming storm would mean our poor tent would literally be unable to withstand the expected wind levels and no tents would be allowed to remain the next day and night. In many places, this would potentially be an exaggeration, but in Norway? Not an exaggeration.

I slept blissfully into the morning, while Lucas—woken by the wind and rain—waited in the car for me to inevitably be woken up. Unfortunately for him, that wasn't likely from my equivalent of a white noise machine blasting outside. As the wind continued to progress to a worrying level, and I continued to remain asleep, he began calling my phone from the car, finally waking me. Needless to say, we packed up as quickly as possible.

That day, intended to be spent hiking and kayaking, was instead spent drinking copious amounts of coffee and eating the best toasties at Bringen Kaffebar. Completely packed with like-minded travellers, we waited out the weather, listening to it batter the building and windows. With too much time on our hands and no desire to sit in our car all the way until we ended up sleeping in our car, we booked an adorable rorbu instead, bringing some drinks and groceries to hunker down for the night.

In hindsight, booking the rorbu was a perfect and iconic way to take in Lofoten. As fun as it was to use our new tent and to freedom camp in our car, the cozy night with a bed was a great switch-up from the tent.

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With the previous day gone, we had a big hike to make up: Reinebringen, another notable and iconic hike with a full panoramic view of Reine.

Although the hike is relatively short, it is very steep. Norway actually had 1,978 Sherpa stairs—manually carved to fit the path, prevent erosion, and protect the natural environment—installed by Nepalese Sherpa craftsmen that made this the ultimate Stairmaster workout, particularly for me and my short legs.

While at the top, we experienced the full range of weather. The clouds rolled in, and we got caught in a downpour. We took shelter on the mountainside and waited it out.

It also became the fourth place where I spread some of Dad's ashes.

As we descended, the weather cleared up once again. We got the unmatched double rainbow and clear blue skies at the viewpoint of Reine with Olstinden mountain standing behind.

With what remained of our day, we drove over four-and-a-half hours to the Andenes ferry.

During summer, this ferry runs only a few times a day and has limited capacity, so we followed the advice of previous travellers and lined up, sleeping in our car overnight to ensure we were on the ferry to Gryllefjord in Senja in the morning.

Our time in Senja brought us to Ersfjord Beach. In addition to being a nice beach, it is also home to a quirky golden bathroom. Next, we stopped at Tungeneset, a rocky walk with views of the Devil’s Teeth (Okshornan) mountains. We got a wonderful vista at an elevated viewing platform called Bergsbotn Viewpoint.

And our last stop in Senja: hiking Hesten. After 538m elevation, we were rewarded with another sweeping view that included the unique, sharp peak of Segla. All told, the trek was approximately 5.5km out-and-back and took about three hours.

Instead of camping overnight in Senja, we decided to make the remaining two-hour drive to Tromso, arriving late in the evening at the apartment we rented instead of camping. In true us fashion, we enjoyed a cozy night watching Lord of the Rings.

We made the most of our one full day in Tromso: I got to enjoy a coffee after my own family name at Tollefsen Cafe; we visited the unique-exterior-but-sparse-interior of the Arctic Cathedral; we got up close and personal with trolls and their folklore at the Troll Museum; and we ate a large amount of fancy-and-unexpectedly-mostly-cold seafood at Fiskekompaniet.

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With a large distance to cover, and exorbitant additional fees for rentals with drop-offs in different cities, we instead chose to fly one last time; this time to Bergen as a gateway to the western fjords.

BERGEN AND THE FJORDS

We wasted no time, arriving, dropping off our luggage at our inner city apartment, and heading straight to the Bergen Fish Market. My taste buds were clearly inherited from Dad, and I scouted out a snack we both had loved when I was growing up: smoked peppercorn salmon. Except, this time I ate an entire salmon to myself. Lucas, on the other hand, ate a fish cake and a hot dog/smokie, which was less on brand for a fish market, but very on brand for us.

That bit of energy propelled us to the remaining narrow passageways and historical buildings of Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage site along the water.

As well as being repurposed as a home to many artistic endeavours, we also stumbled upon two fun surprises: first, a troll on the second story, opening and peeking out the door. Automaton or magic? I will let you decide.

And second, my first (but not last) Dale of Norway spotting. Before visiting, I did not know the brand that outfits the Norwegian Winter Olympics teams, let alone that it shared a name with my dad!

Along the waterfront, Lucas enjoyed a beer while I enjoyed a glass of wine.

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As sunset approached, we took the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen. We enjoyed views overlooking the city and strolled through trails searching for trolls. We decided the view would be equally nice to see after dark and decided to take advantage of the restaurant at the top to enjoy dinner and wait. Although the mains were also very good, the beef tartare was the standout for us both! The view ended up being equally stunning in the evening.

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On our way back to our apartment, we had another drink at—the apparently now closed—Restaurant 1877. We sat on the patio, but the cellar-like, stone interior was beautiful and intimate. And we saw a cat!

The morning brought us to Hertz to pick up our rental car for our remaining time. Unbeknownst to us, we had booked a fully electric vehicle. It was a surprisingly fun experience: the remaining mileage changed drastically as we drove up the fjords, then as we went down the fjords and the battery recharged itself.

As an arrival gift into the western fjords, we got to experience the second weather warning of our trip: this time a flood warning. It made our first stop at Tvindefossen, a 400-foot waterfall, very showy. The connected river was also surging with murky water as high water levels rushed through.

Considering our campground for the next two nights was along the river, they kindly allowed us to cancel.

Our stop at Gudvangen was moody with low-hanging clouds and calm waters. Thankfully, we crossed the bridge and unexpectedly found ourselves at the Viking city of Njardarheimr in Viking Valley. Although it was not a true village from the time of the Vikings, it was (and is) an authentic recreation based on true Viking Age finds and materials that would have been available in the fjord.

It is also set against and within one of the most stunning backdrops imaginable. Every so often, the clouds would break, and we would see the top of the surrounding mountains with waterfalls cascading down the rock before being swallowed again in the clouds.

My favourite part was sitting on furs around a smouldering, crackling fire as it rained softly around us.

Also, the archery! (I clearly dominated Lucas in this, though we don't need to talk about the axe throwing).

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Similarly moody, we drove along switchback after switchback up a mountain to reach Stegastein Lookout. We didn't spend long, but we watched clouds roll over the fjord, threading through the surrounding trees before breaking just long enough to reveal the view.

The flooding area also presented a different problem: finding a new place to stay. We parked our electric car to charge (which was a challenge because the instructions were only available in Norwegian and it was an electric charging station, hence no gas station or attendant). Our searches led us to a cabin at Østerbø Fjellstove AS. The drive to get there took us through switchbacks within a tunnel, which felt uniquely Norwegian. The location was scenic, and the cabins were cute, but it was somewhat pricey considering we had to do the cleaning before we left!

Our next day was dedicated to Flåm: Flåm to Myrdal by train and Flåm to Gudvangen by fjord cruise. We booked both with Norway's Best, which unwittingly had us doing round trips for each. Win-win, as we got relaxing journeys with beautiful views.

On the railway journey, the train stopped at Kjosfossen for a brief five minutes—just long enough to witness a surprise performance of a "Huldra" (or mythical forest spirit) from Norwegian folklore dancing, then disappearing and reappearing elsewhere, on the rocky platforms on either side of the waterfall.

And, of course, we celebrated with a glass of rosé on the fjord cruise. (Celebrated what, you may ask? It doesn't matter; maybe we were celebrating enjoying a glass of rosé on a beautiful fjord!)

One last surprise awaited us as we departed Flåm the next day: a gently cascading waterfall along the side of the road. We pulled over, only to realize that this “gently cascading waterfall” was actually Tvindefossen—just without all the floodwaters!

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We drove three more hours through Odda—stopping for a charge and for a meal at Ferskvaren AS—to Trolltunga Camping, which was a first-come, first-serve campsite. This suited us perfectly, as we pitched our tent directly in front of the lake (we have since learned it was Sandvinvatnet Lake). The lake happened to have a walking trail around it, and while we wandered, we encountered a cat that Lucas easily befriended.

In the morning, we packed up our gear and made our way to P3 Mågelitopp, which Lucas had booked in advance. This parking was a necessity as we were spending the night atop our destination for the day: Trolltunga. It also reduced our hike by 4.3km each way, with all of the cuts being roadside switchbacks.

All of our weather warnings felt like good luck for our Trolltunga hike and sleep. We had the best weather of our trip, without a cloud in the sky. After completing the 10km climb, we were treated to the iconic Troll's Tongue rock sticking out over Lake Ringedalsvatnet.

Trolltunga was the last location where I spread my dad's ashes, and we ended on a high.

We were also pleasantly surprised by the lack of line, which we were told to expect. Not only did we go out on the rock at midday when we arrived, but also as the sunset crept below the horizon, and once more in the dawn before we made the trek back down.

In the night, we left our tent to see the stars in the lightless and cloudless sky.

It wasn't all rosy, though; we did absolutely run out of water and propane as we were cooking dinner. But luckily the descent was far easier. Lucas tested fate by drinking some creek water, but his bet paid off with no stomach bugs to mention.

The other bittersweet moment was calling our families from the top of the mountain (with no visible infrastructure anywhere around us) and somehow getting the BEST CONNECTION OF OUR LIVES.

While on top of a mountain. Again–WITH NOTHING AROUND!

I am not sure what Canada is doing, but I can't call my mom within the city without playing the "Can you hear me now?" game. But this also meant our families took in the view with us, so we will chalk it up to a win.

All jokes aside, Trolltunga was an absolute highlight, and we couldn't have asked for better luck.

In keeping with the theme of the trip, as we continued toward Bergen, we stopped at the town of Dale and visited the Dale of Norway factory outlet, where we both purchased a Dale of Norway sweater to bring home.

While we were driving, the rain picked back up (making Trolltunga feel extra special), and we decided to stay in an apartment and enjoy some more Lord of the Rings, but this time with pizza!

The next day was dedicated to dropping off our rental car and making our way back to Oslo, and we took the scenic train instead, so I wouldn't call it a waste by any means.

We spent a night in Oslo at Citybox hotel, which was a neat boutique hostel. It had a variety of food nearby, and although we didn't find anything particularly local, we settled on a nice Japanese restaurant for the final meal of the trip.

Before we knew it, we had a 3:00 am wake-up to go back to the airport and say goodbye to Norway.

We spent three weeks seeing as much of Norway as we possibly could. Dad managed to visit quite a bit of it too.

He had asked us to bring him to Norway for years. We eventually did—although, admittedly, we took him to the extreme north, dragged him up several mountains, sent him out onto the fjords in a Viking longship, and let the trolls of Norway have a taste of him before finally bringing him home.

A successful trip, by his standards, I would like to think.

If you've made it this far, thank you for following along on our adventure through Norway!

Departure: August 13th, 2024

Return: September 4th, 2024